So I took a little impromptu Jaws
tour while I was on the Vineyard for the week. However it was not a goal or
even a thought as I boarded the ferry to Vineyard Haven. I’d seen some of the
places before— South Beach, The Chappy ferry and was once standing inside the hardware
store where Brody bought paint and art supplies for the beach closed signs. Not
to mention last year at Joseph Sylvia State Beach where the Kitner boy was fictitiously
eaten by Jaws and of course the Jaws Bridge. I’d walked down Main Street in
Edgartown before— the same street where in 1974 Roy Scheider portrayed Martin Brody. So in never occurred to
me to do it again and catalogue with pictures a kind of Jaws tour.
On day 2 of my stay, we were at South
Beach and I found out, I forget how really— too much sun and seawater I guess,
that Chrissy Watkins death scene had been filmed there which I hadn’t known
before. I started thinking. I have my own vehicle and plenty of time, I could
actually do this. It wouldn’t be my priority but when we traveled to a section
of island, I would take a small circuitous route and check out the film
locations. After all, Jaws along with Star Wars had been my favorite all time
movies— from the time they grabbed my childhood psyche and well into my
twenties and even though I’ve seen them countless times and almost know every
line verbatim, I cannot turn the station when it comes on TV.
I Googled Jaws tours on my phone with
horrible Wi-Fi that worked sometimes, sometimes not. I came across a guy named
Mike who ran Jaws tours out of a general store on Main Street (in the heart of
the Amity town). I asked when he ran another tour. Five tonight, he said.
Twenty bucks a head. Forty bucks for two uninterested kids— it would be a snooze
fest for them. However, selfishly I was going to do it… until I started
thinking I could do one myself, at my and the kids leisure. I Googled Jaws
locations, again on Wi-fi that moved so slow sometimes the pages would not even
come up… and I didn’t have time to wait around and cross reference locations or Google maps. It’s funny too. Martha’s Vineyard is a whaling community and wants
its identity to be as such— nowhere on the island is any plaque commemorating
any part of the movie or are there brochures promoting Jaws in any way. It’s
like, it never happened. I mean it’s part of Vineyard history and should be at
least acknowledged, anyway. So I got a page to come up and as I sat on the soft
sands of East Beach in Chappaquiddick, I quickly scribbled the locations and
addresses on to a flier for the places I wanted to see.
Now there are people out there,
serious Jaws fans who plan trips just for this kind of thing. During successful Google moments I would try and read what others had done— one kid brought a
portable DVD player to help navigate and find landscapes, while others read the
book, The Making of Jaws (a book I once had and read as a 13 year old)— bottom
line these people came prepared. Me not so much. One address had Quint’s shack
listed as simply, Menemsha Inn Road. Okay so I tracked it with my map book and it lead me
through a dirt road network of private roads and cottages and only through
determination and instinct I guess, did I find my way to Menemsha harbor and found
the sight. Again, Brody’s house was listed as 265 East Chop and when I arrived there,
there was no 265. After a few drive bys it became apparent to me that his
house was 267 and the image of the house from the movie became clearer in memory. Of
course that was the one house where cars were parked in the driveway and a
person was reading on the side of the house. I didn’t want to intrude so I took
the picture where I would go unseen despite the fact that the best most
recognizable shot would have been from the other side of the house. Whatever. Another
time, back in Edgartown, I was looking for the listing 2 South Water Street for
the location of Keislings bike rental and there was no 2 South Water Street. I
walked all around and asked a couple of store clerks but they all just referred
me to the guy Mike who ran the Amity tours. I’m sure he would love to give away
his information for free. Anyway turns out 2 South Water was a building created
just for the movie and like Quint’s shack was no longer there.
So anyway, I managed and had fun
doing it without affecting the integrity of the trip. The kids still swam,
jumped off Jaws Bridge, kayaked and rode bikes. I think I would do it again and
really get precise like getting the film locations for interior shots as well—
the town hall, police department and stuff and I would be prepared with
information, pictures, the DVD, whatever it took to create a complete pictorial
then and now Jaws/Martha’s Vineyard history. I did miss a few places and got
one location wrong (which I published on Facebook but won’t matter as the
account is going away soon— got a few die hard Jaws fans/friends who are
checking out the Jaws stuff I already posted).
In closing I know this is a totally
meaningless venture, waste of time (even now the time it takes to write this,
sort through pictures and Google accuracy of the locations) and just a very
trivial thing I’m doing. I get it. You’re right. But what the hell… I’m a 37
year old Jaws fan and have been since I was 8 years old. Personally, it was
just… well when I was on East Chop and staring out at Vineyard sound, imagining the Orca motoring across the horizon— I
gazed at the Brody pier and then followed the coast on down to the left where
there was a row of similar piers that looked exactly like the pier that Jaws
pulled out to sea when the two old guys were hunting him with his wife’s
holiday roast. It was all quiet— the water was flat as ice and serene. Then a
seagull screamed across the Sound and it tore into my memory of an 8 year old
frightened child, playing Jaws on his bed. It put me into the movie. I was
there, in the movie, amazed by this surreal moment. This is why maybe it’s not
too trivial, at least in my eyes.
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Brody moving towards the giant Pagoda tree on South Water Street |
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Christopher and Mathew leaning on the giant Pagoda tree. |
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